South America is often sold to skiers as an easy solution to a Northern Hemisphere problem: fly south, ride lifts in July and keep winter going. Ski touring reveals a far more interesting continent. Here, a single trip can begin among monkey-puzzle trees, climb the flank of an active volcano and end in a hot spring. Elsewhere, skis are carried by horses to the snowline, loaded into a boat on the Beagle Channel or strapped to a llama train bound for a 4,500-metre base camp.

Backcountry skiing, ski touring and ski de randonnée describe the same basic idea: climbing on skis fitted with removable climbing skins, then converting the bindings and boots for the descent. Splitboarders climb in two ski-like halves before reconnecting their board. Ski mountaineering adds the tools and techniques required when touring meets glaciers, steep snow, exposed ridges or summits: crampons, ice axe, ropework and, crucially, the judgement to turn around.

The sport’s growth is easy to understand. Modern touring equipment is lighter and far more enjoyable to ski than it was a generation ago; splitboards have brought snowboarders into the same terrain; and guided itineraries make remote ranges more accessible without pretending they are controlled ski areas. Ski mountaineering’s debut at the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics has given the competitive discipline new visibility, too. But South America’s real appeal is not speed. It is the scale and variety of the journey.

This is not a powder ranking. Snow in the Andes can be wind-affected, sun-crusted, volcanic, maritime, high and dry—sometimes on the same holiday. The destinations below were chosen for the complete experience: compelling terrain, a strong sense of place, imaginative mountain logistics and enough depth to reward several days rather than a hurried summit raid.

Before going: the Andes are not one snowpack

South America has no continent-wide avalanche forecasting system. The Argentine guide association’s Centro de Información de Avalanchas publishes regional bulletins for Bariloche and El Chaltén, but even a good regional forecast cannot tell you whether a particular slope is safe. In Chile, active volcanoes add another moving part; check SERNAGEOMIN’s current volcanic alerts as well as weather and avalanche conditions.

Every group entering avalanche terrain should carry a transceiver, shovel and probe and know how to use them. Glaciated objectives require crevasse-rescue equipment and the skill to deploy it. Bolivia and Peru demand gradual acclimatisation, conservative pacing and insurance that explicitly covers the planned altitude and evacuation method. Satellite communication is sensible in the more remote Patagonian and high-Andean regions.

Guide titles are not interchangeable. For glaciated, technical or high-altitude objectives, ask for a UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide—or an aspirant working within the relevant national system—with ski-mountaineering experience in that exact range. Confirm the guide’s current credential, rescue cover and client-to-guide ratio before paying a deposit. Conditions, park rules and hut openings change; the windows below are starting points, not guarantees.

At a glance

Destination Character Usual starting window Memorable way to travel or stay
Bariloche and Nahuel Huapi, Argentina Granite spires, forest, bowls and couloirs July–October Sleep in the Frey refuge and tour from the door
Malalcahuello and Araucanía Andina, Chile Araucaria forest and volcanic cones July–October Use a snowmobile shuttle, then skin towards Lonquimay
Osorno and the Chilean Lake District Broad volcano slopes, glaciers and lake views July–October Base at a historic ski-club refuge and finish in hot springs
Cajón del Maipo, Chile Dry, high Central Andes and expedition-scale volcanoes August–October Approach with arrieros and sleep at Refugio Plantat
Vallecitos and Cordón del Plata, Argentina High-desert acclimatisation terrain August–October Link simple mountain refuges above Mendoza’s vineyards
Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego, Argentina Sea-to-summit touring in subantarctic forest August–October Combine skis with a boat, helicopter or backcountry camp
Cerro Castillo and Aysén, Chile Lenga forest, glacial valleys and steep granite scenery July–September Ride horses with local gauchos to the snowline
El Chaltén and the Southern Ice Field, Argentina Serious glacial ski mountaineering August–October; expedition windows vary Cross passes with tents and simple ice-field shelters
Cordillera Real, Bolivia Dry-season, high-altitude glacier skiing May–September Send camp equipment ahead by llama
Cordillera Blanca, Peru Technical 5,000- and 6,000-metre ski mountaineering May–September Use locally run high refuges and pack-animal approaches

1. Bariloche and Nahuel Huapi, Argentina

Best for: A first Patagonian ski-touring holiday with real mountain-refuge atmosphere

Refugio Frey glowing at night beneath snow-covered granite spires
Refugio Frey beneath the granite spires of Cerro Catedral on a snowy night.Macidiano · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
The stone Refugio Frey surrounded by snow and steep granite walls
The stone-built Frey refuge, a base for winter and spring touring.Gabo2012 · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Refugio Otto Meiling standing on a snowy ridge high on Cerro Tronador
Refugio Otto Meiling occupies an exposed position on Cerro Tronador.Stevage · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Cerro Capilla reflected in the blue waters of Nahuel Huapi
Cerro Capilla across Nahuel Huapi, part of the lake-and-granite landscape around Bariloche..Luc. · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Rock and ice on the glaciated upper slopes of Cerro Tronador
Cerro Tronador raises the commitment from refuge touring to glaciated ski mountaineering.McKay Savage from London, UK · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

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Bariloche is the most established name on this list, but the usual lift-skiing story at Cerro Catedral misses its best feature. Beyond the resort boundary lies an unusually coherent touring landscape: old-growth forest low down, granite needles above and a chain of bowls, passes and mountain refuges spread across Nahuel Huapi National Park. It offers day tours with a comfortable hotel in town, but also the rare South American pleasure of waking in a hut, stepping into bindings and beginning the climb at the door.

Refugio Frey is the natural centre of gravity. It sits at about 1,700 metres beneath the granite towers around Laguna Toncek, with gladed approaches, open bowls and steeper couloirs nearby. The official refuge information describes winter and spring ski touring and strongly recommends using a qualified guide. Frey sleeps roughly 40 people and operates in winter, although reservations and current access conditions should always be checked. Two or three nights let a guide choose aspects according to wind and snow rather than forcing a single objective.

The wider Bariloche refuge network includes López, Jakob and Laguna Negra, as well as Berghof—the former mountain home of ski pioneer Otto Meiling. Multi-day links are possible, but they are not a mellow Alpine hut tour transplanted to Patagonia. Some connectors involve steep passes, complex navigation and long days, while winter staffing varies. Cerro Tronador, west of town, raises the level again with glaciated terrain and a much larger sense of commitment.

Bariloche’s mountain culture is layered. The town’s chocolate shops and timbered lodges advertise an Alpine inheritance, while the surrounding mountains and lakes are also part of a much older Mapuche landscape. A good local guide can supply more than a route: the history of ski clubs, national-park refuges, mountain workers and the place names encountered along the way.

Plan it: The tourism office describes the broad touring season as July to October. Start with a day of lift-assisted or roadside touring, then move to Frey if conditions and experience suit. Andes Mountain Guides lists local AAGM and UIAGM/IFMGA guides with ski-mountaineering experience; its Argentina contact is +54 9 294 480 9852. Patagonia Ascent is another Bariloche-based UIAGM-led operator. Frey can be contacted directly at refugiofreybariloche@gmail.com. Check the avalanche bulletin, park registration, hut booking and whether the proposed route needs glacier equipment.

2. Malalcahuello and Araucanía Andina, Chile

Best for: Volcanic touring, unusual mechanised access and a strong regional identity

A snow-covered road winding between Araucaria trees towards Corralco
The winter road to Corralco passes through snow-laden Araucaria forest.Cmanagercorralco · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Araucaria trees scattered across snowy slopes in Malalcahuello-Nalcas Reserve
Araucarias punctuate the touring terrain in Malalcahuello-Nalcas National Reserve.Natalia Reyes Escobar · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
A solitary Araucaria tree standing beside a snow-covered mountain valley
A solitary Araucaria in the snow—a landscape found nowhere else on this list.Javiera zuñiga prieto · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Snow-covered Llaima volcano rising beyond forest and fields
Llaima is the region's larger and more serious volcanic objective.Patricio Mason · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Native forest covered by fresh spring snow near Llaima in Conguillío
A late snowfall covers the native forest of the wider Araucanía volcano corridor.O.gomez01 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

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The village of Malalcahuello sits in a corridor of volcanoes close to the Argentine border. Lonquimay, at 2,865 metres, is the elegant local landmark; Tolhuaca, Sierra Nevada and the larger Llaima broaden the possibilities. On the lower mountain, ski tracks thread between araucarias—the sculptural, long-lived trees sometimes called monkey puzzles—before emerging onto smooth volcanic slopes with enormous horizons.

Lonquimay is the approachable headline objective when weather, volcanic status and snow align. Its upper cone is open and often wind-exposed, while the forest gives more sheltered options during unsettled periods. Corralco’s lifts occupy one side of the volcano and can make useful acclimatisation or lift-assisted touring possible; the Malalcahuello National Reserve opens into far quieter backcountry. Llaima and Tolhuaca are bigger, more serious outings, and not substitutes when Lonquimay is unsafe.

This is one of the continent’s best places to rethink the approach. Local operators use snowmobiles or tracked vehicles to reach deeper snow and leave more energy for touring, while simpler days begin directly from forest roads. The machines do not neutralise avalanche or volcanic risk, but a well-planned shuttle can turn a long road approach into a remarkable traverse. Malalcahuello also has hot-spring accommodation, so the trip can alternate remote touring with restorative evenings rather than demanding a continuous expedition.

Araucanía Andina lies within Kütralkura, recognised by UNESCO as a global geopark in 2019. The name combines ideas of fire and stone; UNESCO’s account of the region also explains the relationship between Pehuenche communities, the pehuén or araucaria and the gathering of its edible seeds, piñones. This is living knowledge, not decorative folklore. Choose locally connected businesses, ask before photographing people or ceremonies and approach community tourism as an exchange rather than a mountain-trip add-on.

Plan it: July to September usually offers the most wintry coverage, with spring volcano days sometimes extending into October. Malalcahuello-based SledChile arranges snowmobile-supported mountain travel (info@sledchile.com; +56 9 9541 3348). Isoterma Cero is a local touring and equipment contact (info@isotermacero.cl; +56 9 9477 3702). For summit skiing, confirm who will lead, their mountain and ski credentials, and the emergency plan. Check weather, avalanche conditions, access permissions and the current SERNAGEOMIN alert for the intended volcano.

3. Osorno and the Chilean Lake District

Best for: A varied volcano week with comfortable bases, historic refuges and hot springs

Snow-capped Osorno volcano rising across the calm water of Lake Llanquihue
Osorno's symmetrical cone across Lake Llanquihue.Rodrigo Fernández · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Snow-covered upper Osorno above the buildings and lifts of its mountain centre
The Osorno mountain centre can provide lift-assisted access before the glaciated upper cone.Marisa Garrido/marisadechile · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
A timber mountain lodge surrounded by deep snow at Antillanca
Antillanca provides a comfortable winter base among forested volcano terrain.Felipe Barriga Richards · CC BY-SA 2.5 · Wikimedia Commons
Aerial view of the Chilean Lake District with snow-covered volcanoes above cloud
From the air, the Lake District reveals its chain of volcanoes and water.LBM1948 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Cattle grazing on green pasture with Osorno volcano across the lake
Pasture, lake and volcano meet on the settled side of Llanquihue.Trinicorrea1 · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

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Volcán Osorno is almost implausibly symmetrical when seen across Lago Llanquihue. Its visual perfection can make the skiing look simple. It is not. The lower flanks offer broad, enjoyable touring and views towards lakes, islands and the sharp silhouette of Puntiagudo, but the upper mountain is glaciated, crevassed and exposed to rapid weather changes. The summit is a ski-mountaineering objective for an appropriately equipped guided party, not the automatic finish to a recreational tour.

The region works best as a portfolio rather than a single summit. Volcán Casablanca, above Antillanca in Puyehue National Park, has broad, largely non-glaciated slopes and is often a more forgiving place to build volcano-touring skills. Osorno adds greater vertical scale and glacier travel. Antillanca’s forested terrain can provide alternatives when the high cones disappear into cloud. The Aguas Calientes hot springs are close enough to make a civilised end to a weather day.

Accommodation has genuine mountain history. Club Andino de Osorno was founded in 1940 and its Teski refuge was constructed in the late 1960s on Osorno’s flank; today it combines simple rooms and food with direct access to the mountain. Antillanca has a full hotel, while Puerto Varas makes a comfortable lakefront base for day trips. A week can therefore move between refuge, mountain hotel and town rather than repeating the same commute.

The cultural texture is equally mixed: Mapuche-Huilliche territory, working lake communities and the architecture and baking traditions associated with nineteenth-century German settlement all meet around Llanquihue. Puerto Varas is polished, but the most satisfying itineraries spend money in smaller communities as well as in the resort corridor.

Plan it: Aim broadly for July to October and let recent snowfall, wind and freezing level determine the volcano. Puerto Varas-based Volkano Ski Touring specialises in the Lake District; its published qualifications include Chilean mountain training, avalanche education and wilderness medical training (volkanotouring@gmail.com; +56 9 8298 7222). Rimaya also runs a combined Casablanca–Osorno programme. Ask explicitly whether the day is non-glaciated touring or a roped glacier ascent, and check the current volcanic alert.

4. Cajón del Maipo, Chile

Best for: High Central-Andes ski mountaineering close to Santiago—without a resort experience

Steep snow-covered mountain walls beneath a blue sky in Cajón del Maipo
Winter snow defines steep terrain in an upper Cajón del Maipo valley.Sebastián Rojas · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Cerro Arenas rising above a rocky high-Andes approach with snow on its faces
Cerro Arenas is one of the valley's established mountaineering and touring landmarks.PhilWolpe · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Small mountain buildings beneath broad snowy slopes in Cajón del Maipo
Simple mountain buildings underline how quickly the valley leaves Santiago behind.Sebastián Rojas · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
A boulder and distant peaks in a snow-covered valley at Baños Morales
Fresh snow at Baños Morales, one of the gateways to the upper valley.Bperezvera · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
The high Engorda valley leading towards the snow-streaked San José volcanic complex
The Engorda valley on the approach towards Volcán San José.Tijs Michels · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

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Cajón del Maipo begins almost at Santiago’s edge, yet its upper valleys feel stark and remote. The climate is drier than in the southern volcano belt; slopes rise through coloured rock and sparse vegetation towards San José, Marmolejo and the high frontier with Argentina. Snow coverage is less dependable than in Patagonia, but a good season creates long spring lines, firm high-altitude approaches and an efficient way to move through country that would be exhausting on foot.

There are several levels to the terrain. Lower tours around Lagunillas and the side valleys can work as day outings. Morado Norte and the country around Cerro Arenas demand more judgement and fitness. Volcán San José, 5,856 metres, and Cerro Marmolejo, 6,108 metres, belong to the expedition end: altitude, glaciers, wind and several days of approach matter more than the romance of skiing a volcano. Treat those summits as separate high-mountain projects, not as optional upgrades to a weekend.

Refugio Plantat is the valley’s emblematic overnight. Built in 1937 at roughly 3,130 metres on the San José approach, it is a small, basic stone shelter rather than a staffed European hut. Parties should be self-sufficient and ready to camp if it is full or unsuitable. For longer expeditions, local arrieros can move food and camp equipment by mule or horse into upper valleys. That way of travelling connects modern ski mountaineering to a practical pastoral tradition still used throughout the Central Andes.

The valley is also a place to slow down. San José de Maipo, mountain villages, roadside food and the mineral waters at Baños Morales or Baños Colina make it possible to build weather and recovery days into the itinerary. The hot springs are not merely consolation: in a region where wind and thin snow can cancel a summit plan, flexibility is part of good trip design.

Plan it: August to October is a useful planning range, but coverage varies dramatically by year and aspect. For technical or high-altitude skiing, contact a current UIAGM/IFMGA guide through the Asociación Nacional de Guías de Montaña. UIAGM guide Pedro Pablo Sermini at AndesClimb teaches ski-mountaineering and glacier-rescue courses and can be reached at pepa@andesclimb.org or +56 9 8468 0110. Chile Mountain Guide fields nationally certified ANGM guides and can help build a lower-altitude alternative. Agree the objective only after reviewing snow, acclimatisation and glacier conditions; arrange arriero support through the guide rather than assuming animals will be waiting at a trailhead.

5. Vallecitos and Cordón del Plata, Argentina

Best for: High-altitude progression with simple refuges and a Mendoza food-and-wine finish

An Andean condor flying in front of the snowy Cordón del Plata above Vallecitos
An Andean condor sweeps across the snowy Cordón del Plata above Vallecitos.xxxx · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Aerial view across the high, snow-streaked Cordón del Plata
An aerial view reveals the scale and aridity of Cordón del Plata.WeHaKa · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Layered ridges and high peaks in Cordón del Plata Provincial Park
Cordón del Plata Provincial Park rises through successive high-desert ridges.Titan2155 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
The stone Universidad Nacional de Cuyo refuge in Vallecitos
The Universidad Nacional de Cuyo refuge is part of Vallecitos' simple mountain-hut network.Lu Brito · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Vineyards at Tupungato with the Cordón del Plata mountains behind
Vineyards at Tupungato show how close Mendoza's wine country lies to the high Andes.Federico Gomez Aghetta · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

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Cordón del Plata rises directly behind Mendoza’s vineyards, but its upper valleys belong to the high desert. Vallecitos—the site of a former ski area—is the usual gateway. Without operating lifts, its old pistes, gullies and surrounding ridges have become a natural training ground for human-powered travel. The attraction is not guaranteed deep snow; it is a compact altitude ladder from roadside touring towards 4,000- and 5,000-metre mountains.

Lomas Blancas, Adolfo Calle and San Bernardo can be sensible progression objectives in the right coverage. Cerro El Plata, at around 5,968 metres, dominates the range and is an expedition-scale ski objective only in an unusually suitable snow year. Wind stripping, hard snow and penitentes—blades of sun-sculpted snow or ice—can make skis less useful high on the mountain. A good guide designs the week around snow quality and acclimatisation, not around collecting the tallest summit.

The Cordón del Plata Provincial Park has a cluster of privately managed refuges, including San Bernardo and other long-standing club or family shelters. Standards and opening dates vary, but the network creates an appealing rhythm: sleep low, tour higher, move to another refuge or return to Mendoza. Compared with a tent-only expedition, it is an accessible way to learn how the body responds to altitude.

Mendoza is part of the reason to come. A ski week can be followed by vineyard visits, long lunches and the urban ritual of eating late after days governed by an alpine start. In the mountains, arrieros, refuge keepers and local guide associations provide a more grounded Cuyo identity than the region’s international wine image suggests.

Plan it: August to October can work, but this is the most coverage-dependent destination in the selection. Contact the park at cordondelplata@mendoza.gov.ar for current registration, refuge and ranger information. The Argentine Mountain Guides Association publishes directories of associated and UIAGM guides; ask for a ski-qualified guide working in Mendoza/Cuyo. The provincial association, AAGPM, is available at info@aagpm.org. Ask for a conditions-based itinerary with several altitude bands, and reserve refuges individually rather than assuming a single hut pass exists.

6. Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

Best for: Atmospheric sea-to-summit touring and short adventures with inventive logistics

Snowy forest above Ushuaia with the city and Beagle Channel below
Looking from the Martial approach over winter forest, Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel.1985Idea · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
The former Martial ski slope climbing through forest above Ushuaia
The former Martial ski slope shows the direct approach from town towards the mountains.Fredlyfish4 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
The snow-covered cirque and ice of Vinciguerra Glacier beneath broken peaks
Vinciguerra shows the glaciated, serious side of Tierra del Fuego's compact ranges.Butterfly austral - Serge Ouachée · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
The Fuegian mountains and Ushuaia seen across the bay
The Fuegian range rises directly beyond Ushuaia's bay and waterfront.Gastón Cuello · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Ships moored in Ushuaia harbour beneath mountains at the Beagle Channel
Ushuaia's port makes boat-supported mountain journeys possible.Acaro · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

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Ushuaia’s touring feels unlike skiing elsewhere in the Andes. The snowline can meet twisted lenga forest close to sea level; above it, compact cirques and sharp ridges overlook the Beagle Channel. Approaches are relatively low by Andean standards, so altitude is not the limiting factor. Maritime weather, wind, visibility and steep terrain are.

The Martial range begins only a few kilometres from town and offers accessible orientation days with channel views. Deeper outings reach the valleys and bowls beneath Cinco Hermanos, the Garibaldi area or the Carbajal Valley. Glaciar Vinciguerra and Laguna del Caminante are often mentioned in local itineraries, but names conceal the seriousness of the ground: complex approaches, avalanche paths and glaciated or steep exits can turn a short map distance into a full mountain day.

Tierra del Fuego is particularly good at combining modes of travel. Local operators can build custom trips involving a boat landing, a helicopter drop, a backcountry camp or a simple mountain shelter, depending on permissions and conditions. On a rest day, Nordic skiing or dog-sled travel offers a very different relationship with the winter forest. These are not gimmicks when used thoughtfully; they respond to a landscape divided by channels, boggy valleys and roadless mountains.

Ushuaia itself gives the trip cultural depth and comfort. Fuegian lamb and king crab speak to the modern economy; Estancia Harberton and Puerto Almanza open windows onto rural and maritime life. The region is also the ancestral home of Yámana and Selk’nam peoples. Museums and community-led interpretation deserve time, especially in a city whose “end of the world” marketing can otherwise flatten a complicated human history.

Plan it: August to October generally offers a useful balance of coverage and daylight. Patagon Mountain Agency runs guided ski-touring and splitboard days with certified guides (reservas@patagonmountainagency.com; +54 9 2901 609 991). Alma Calma is a local contact for custom trips using camps, boats, refuges or helicopters (info@almacalma.net; +54 2901 582 989). Verify the lead guide’s ski and mountain credentials, what is included in mechanised access and the weather fallback before booking.

7. Cerro Castillo and Aysén, Chile

Best for: Horse-assisted wilderness skiing and steep Patagonian scenery away from famous resorts

The dark spires of Cerro Castillo rising above snowfields
Cerro Castillo's dark spires above lingering snow.Anakenaservicios · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Sunlit Cerro Castillo above snow-dusted lenga forest
Cerro Castillo catches the evening light above lenga forest.Chile28882 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
A mounted gaucho moving cattle through the Aysén countryside
Horse work remains practical daily knowledge in rural Aysén.Rosario Nieto Chadwick · CC BY 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
A horseman riding through the countryside near Villa Cerro Castillo
A local horseman near Villa Cerro Castillo—the human side of a horse-assisted ski approach.M M from Switzerland · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Cerro Castillo rising above forest and fields near Villa Cerro Castillo
The massif above the forest and fields of the wider Río Ibáñez landscape.M M from Switzerland · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

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The black spires of Cerro Castillo rise above lenga forest and glacial valleys in the heart of Aysén. The summit itself is a technical rock-and-ice mountaineering objective, not a casual ski peak. The touring prize lies around it: high basins, long shoulders, forest openings and couloirs beneath the massif, plus neighbouring terrain around Cordón Divisadero and the wider Río Ibáñez country.

This is still exploratory skiing. Wind can scour ridges while loading adjacent bowls; access roads and river crossings change; and a line that looks close from Villa Cerro Castillo may involve hours of forest travel. That uncertainty is precisely the draw for experienced parties. Rather than repeating established laps beside a resort, each day is a small expedition chosen from local observation.

The signature approach is on horseback. A local gaucho and guide can carry skiers through lower forest or across an estancia to the snowline, where boots and horses give way to skins. Some itineraries return for an asado; others continue to a simple hut, lodge or camp. Horses are not an excuse to bring everything. They are working animals in variable winter terrain, and a reputable operator will set limits according to trail and weather.

Aysén’s culture is inseparable from distance. Mate, wool work, horsemanship and wood-smoke are parts of daily life rather than a staged aesthetic. Near Villa Cerro Castillo, the Paredón de las Manos preserves handprints estimated to be about 5,000 years old; the Route of Parks profile is a useful starting point for understanding the village beyond its mountain skyline.

Plan it: Horse-and-ski trips usually target July to late September. In the national park’s winter period, roughly May to November, self-guided access is restricted and every activity needs advance approval. Guided parties must file declarations at least five days ahead with a recognised guide; independent sports applications are assessed separately and require demonstrable experience and equipment. Cerro Castillo Mountain Guides, led by UIAGM/IFMGA guide Pere Vilarasau, has a local team and offers ski touring. Esnativa arranges the horseback-ski format (info@esnativabackcountry.com; +56 9 8889 3971). Confirm whether the objective enters the park, the guide’s certification, animal welfare arrangements and the exact overnight standard.

8. El Chaltén and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, Argentina

Best for: Expert ski mountaineers who value expedition travel more than predictable snow

Fitz Roy emerging through cloud after fresh snow
Fitz Roy emerges from a clearing storm above El Chaltén.Winky from Oxford, UK · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Two expedition travellers moving across the Southern Patagonian Ice Field from Paso Marconi
Expedition travel onto the Southern Patagonian Ice Field from Paso Marconi.Jfbustos · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Aerial view across the vast white plateau and nunataks of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field
The ice field's scale only becomes clear from above.ELB.SKY · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
A small corrugated-metal mountain shelter in the Patagonian backcountry
A simple Patagonian shelter; ice-field parties must still be equipped to camp.Py4nf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Satellite view of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and its outlet glaciers
NASA's orbital view shows outlet glaciers flowing from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.NASA · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

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El Chaltén is best known for Fitz Roy and summer trekking, yet winter transforms the surrounding valleys into a serious ski-mountaineering venue. Forest climbs lead towards Cerro Madsen and the Glaciar de los Tres basin; across Lago del Desierto, the Vespignani area can hold attractive glacier terrain when access is running. The scenery is exceptional, but Patagonian wind, cloud and rapid warming have veto power.

A day tour towards Glaciar de los Tres illustrates the character: a long approach, around 1,000 metres or more of climbing, glaciated terrain and a descent beneath some of the world’s most recognisable granite towers. It is not resort sidecountry. A route can require crampons, ropework, difficult navigation and carrying skis through forest or bare ground. Cerro Madsen and neighbouring objectives are similarly condition-led.

The expedition extension is the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. Routes entering by Paso Marconi and leaving by Paso del Viento cross an immense plateau before returning through complex moraine and valley terrain. Parties use tents and may use simple shelters such as Refugio Gorra Blanca or the García Soto box shelter, but they must remain self-sufficient if a building is buried, damaged or inaccessible. Sleds can help move food on the plateau; they are a burden on steep approaches and exits.

Winter also changes the town. Many businesses reduce hours or close, turning El Chaltén from a crowded trailhead into a small mountain community. That quiet is part of the appeal, but it makes pre-arranged transfers, fuel, food and accommodation essential. The Tehuelche or Aonikenk name Chaltén, often interpreted as “smoking mountain”, is a reminder that the famous skyline had meaning long before modern climbing arrived.

Plan it: August to October is a broad window for local tours; an ice-field expedition needs a custom weather and surface assessment rather than a fixed “best month”. Alpine Patagonia is run by El Chaltén-based UIAGM guide Roberto “Indio” Treu (robertotreu@gmail.com). Chaltén Mountain Guides publishes a Marconi–Paso del Viento ice-field itinerary, while Mountaineering Patagonia has a local UIAGM team and offers winter skiing. Confirm boat or road access separately; do not build a plan around a seasonal service until the operator has guaranteed it. Check the El Chaltén avalanche bulletin before local tours.

9. Cordillera Real, Bolivia

Best for: Experienced ski mountaineers ready to trade powder expectations for 5,000- and 6,000-metre scale

The snow-covered Cordillera Real glowing above the altiplano in evening light
Evening light along the Cordillera Real.Christoph Strässler · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Laguna Chiar Khota beneath the jagged snow-covered peaks of Condoriri
Laguna Chiar Khota is the principal base-camp setting for the Condoriri group.Albert Backer · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Climbers ascending the narrow snow ridge of Pequeño Alpamayo
The exposed summit ridge of Pequeño Alpamayo.Albert Backer · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
A llama standing in cold wind on the Bolivian altiplano
Llamas can carry camp loads to Condoriri while skiers acclimatise on foot.Patrick Henry from Euclid, Ohio, United States · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Tents beside Laguna Chiar Khota beneath the Milky Way and dark mountain silhouettes
A cold, clear night at Chiar Khota base camp.Christoph Strässler · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

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Bolivia is the deliberate outlier in this list. The Cordillera Real is not a reliable winter powder destination. During the dry season, the attraction is travelling efficiently over high glaciers and, in favourable surface conditions, making ski descents from elevations that are expeditionary almost anywhere else. Snow may be firm, suncupped or broken by penitentes; crevasses and blue ice can end a ski line even when the summit route remains climbable.

Condoriri is the most adaptable base. From camp beside Laguna Chiar Khota, parties can acclimatise on Pico Austria and evaluate glacier conditions around Pequeño Alpamayo, 5,425 metres. Huayna Potosí, 6,088 metres, is close to La Paz and has established base and high-camp infrastructure; its glaciers have seen significant change, so historical descent descriptions are not a current route plan. Illimani, 6,438 metres, is a much more committing expedition.

Llama support makes the approach to Condoriri memorable as well as practical. Animals can transport camp loads to the lake while skiers walk with day equipment, leaving energy for acclimatisation. The camps are simple and cold. Huayna Potosí has refuges on its standard approach, but a hut does not remove the need for self-sufficiency, safe water, medical planning and an evacuation strategy.

La Paz and Lake Titicaca should be part of the acclimatisation plan, not scenery glimpsed from a transfer. Aymara communities live and work throughout the altiplano and valleys below the range. Hire Bolivian guides, buy supplies locally and ask how access agreements and animal support benefit the communities involved. The mountains are not empty merely because the upper glaciers are.

Plan it: The relatively stable dry season generally runs from May to September, but skiable coverage varies. Spend several days acclimatising before sleeping high and retain non-ski mountaineering objectives if surface conditions are poor. The Asociación de Guías de Montaña y Trekking de Bolivia is an IFMGA member association with a searchable guide list; contact info@agmtb.org or +591 7199 1839 and request a UIAGM guide with current ski-mountaineering experience. Discuss altitude-illness and evacuation protocols, rescue insurance, glacier change and whether the proposed descent has actually been inspected that season.

10. Cordillera Blanca, Peru

Best for: Advanced high-altitude skiers seeking a fully fledged Andean expedition

The white summit of Vallunaraju rising above the Cordillera Blanca foothills
Vallunaraju is often used as a first high objective from Huaraz.Ondando · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Pisco and Chacraraju reflected in a still high-Andean lake
Pisco and Chacraraju reflected near Yanapaccha base camp.sergejf · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
The stone Refugio Ishinca with high snow peaks behind
Refugio Ishinca provides a staffed base at roughly 4,350 metres.Jespa · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
A mountaineer climbing a narrow sculpted snow ridge in the Cordillera Blanca
A climber on Chopicalqui shows the exposed snow terrain typical of the range.Adha65 · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
The steep fluted snow and ice faces of Tocllaraju
Tocllaraju belongs to the technical end of Cordillera Blanca ski mountaineering.Max69 · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

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The Cordillera Blanca contains the greatest concentration of tropical glaciers in the world and some of South America’s most striking high peaks. It also punishes wishful thinking. Skiers come to Huaraz for long glacier descents and the possibility of travelling on skis at 5,000 or 6,000 metres, but variable snow, open crevasses, seracs and rapidly changing glacier access mean a famous mountain may be unskiable in a particular season.

Vallunaraju, 5,686 metres, is often used as a first high ski objective because it is close to Huaraz, but “introductory” is relative: the summit is high, glaciated and exposed. Pisco, around 5,752 metres, offers extraordinary views and can form part of a progression through the Llanganuco valley. The Ishinca valley gives access to Ishinca, Ranrapalca and Tocllaraju. The latter two belong at the technical end, and any descent may involve rappelling, downclimbing or carrying skis around unsafe ice.

Overnight logistics are a major strength. Refugio Ishinca, at roughly 4,350 metres, and Refugio Perú beneath Pisco provide staffed high-mountain bases in season; other small refuges and bivouac shelters serve selected valleys. Many were created through Operazione Mato Grosso and are managed with local parish or community involvement. Refugios Andinos publishes current hut information. Burros can move duffels to base camp, while clients carry their personal day and safety equipment.

Huaraz is not simply a gear depot. Build in time for acclimatisation walks, markets and food, and recognise the Quechua-speaking communities whose irrigation, grazing and travel routes extend into the valleys used by expeditions. The best guide relationships make this visible—through local cooks, animal handlers, refuge staff and village agreements—rather than presenting the Cordillera Blanca as an uninhabited arena.

Plan it: May to September is the usual dry-season planning window. This trip requires strong ski technique in poor snow, prior glacier travel and enough fitness to make good decisions at altitude. Contact a UIAGM guide through the Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Perú, based in Huaraz (contacto@agmp.pe; +51 920 621 054). Build a progression with at least one lower acclimatisation day and two possible high objectives, reserve huts directly, and confirm pack-animal arrangements. Insist on a current route assessment: in the Cordillera Blanca, a willingness to replace a famous summit with a safer mountain is a sign of expertise.

How to choose the right South American ski tour

Choose by environment before choosing by summit.

  • For a first visit: Bariloche combines reliable logistics, day tours and a genuine winter refuge. The Chilean Lake District adds straightforward volcano terrain without requiring every day to be a summit attempt.

  • For distinctive movement and culture: Malalcahuello’s snowmobile approaches, Aysén’s horse-assisted days and Tierra del Fuego’s boat or camp possibilities turn the approach into part of the story.

  • For technical ski mountaineering: El Chaltén is about glacier judgement and Patagonian weather. Bolivia and Peru add serious altitude and should follow—not precede—experience with crevasse rescue, crampons and exposed skiing.

  • For a city-and-mountain getaway: Cajón del Maipo can be paired with Santiago; Vallecitos with Mendoza’s restaurants and vineyards; Osorno with Puerto Varas; Bariloche with lakefront comfort.

The most successful itinerary is rarely the one with the longest summit list. Reserve enough days for weather, carry a lower-angle alternative and let a local guide change the objective without feeling that the holiday has failed. In South America, uncertainty is not a defect in ski touring. Handled well, it is what turns a descent into a journey.